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Retro Hardtail

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Retro Hardtail
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Back at it in March

Here's the process of how I made the frame a hardtail

tankmount.jpg
Tank mount and rear frame cross member

I was glad to get the grinder out for the first time in 13 years.

smooth.jpg
Frame rail removed

fd.jpg
Final drive attachment

mock1.jpg
Good general idea

shockmnt.jpg
Inner and outer tube marked

shortsupport.jpg
I was an inch short with the arc, so I recut a flat surface to weld an extension to

I had jacked up my swingarm in hopes to get it as level as possible. I have to trailer the bike to a welder as stated previously, so I needed a way to keep the swingarm where I had raised (or lowered depending on how you look at it) it to. I fabricated a small brace out of what looked to be 1/8" flat steel and you can see where that got me. So I upgraded to a chunk of 3/16" angle iron that was actually an old steel bed frame at one time. I don't think I'll have any problems with this one. Next is to transport her to a welder to keep things where they're going to be on the left side.

fakeshock2.jpg

I found top center of the tank mount to allow me to get it close to the right angle when reinstalling it. When it gets reinstalled, it will be forward about an inch and circled 180° with a slight arc if need be. I cut off the forward 'tab' on the mount because it will protrude where my seat is going to be. I also cut out the rear frame cross member to essentially give me 2 halves. Not having a welder hooked up, it will be easier for me to trailer if I just do one side at a time.

I cut the lower shock mount off the shock. It's going to be welded to the new frame rail like this and I'm adding the extra tube inside for strength since you're vertually making it a rougher ride on your bike by doing this.

hardtail.jpg
Detailed fabrication

downtube.jpg
Ready for cutting

As you do this, you're going to notice that the frame support tube going from the swingarm bolts towards the rear isn't going to be flush with the route you're going to need to take with the new hardtail. It's going to be about 2" from where your new downtube is going to go. There are several asthetic ways of making this happen. I'm going to try and go for the strongest, which is straight, meaning I need to bend the formentioned tube in towards the tire that 2". (Which I happened to cut short accidentally as you'll see in the pics below.)

support.jpg
tube bent in-line with downtube

extended.jpg
Ready for welds

fakeshock1.jpg
Too flimsy

trailered.jpg

Do not attempt anything outside of your own capabilities without a professional nearby